Measuring time with innovative objects is part of the essence of Cartier. One of the Maison’s most important achievements was the mechanism for its mystery clocks inspired by the illusionist Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. In 1912, Louis Cartier and the clockmaker Maurice Coüet developed a complex invisible mechanism for table and desk clocks whose hands appear to float.

Cartier’s history with wristwatches began thanks to the friendship between Louis Cartier and the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who commented how difficult it was to tell time while flying. In response, Cartier created a modern wristwatch, the Santos, which became an icon of the Maison. In addition, in 2006, the Maison released the La Doña de Cartier wristwatch collection: watches in homage to the elegance and glamour of Mexican actress María Félix.

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Among Cartier’s foremost clients was the American heiress Barbara Hutton, who identified with the Maison’s feline creations and kept a residence in Cuernavaca, Morelos. On top of jewels, Barbara Hutton also owned exceptional Cartier objects, like a mystery clock, one of the Maison’s most important achievements.

*Desk clock
Cartier Paris, 1959
Gold, platinum, diamonds, mother-of-pearl

Provenance:
Barbara Hutton
Barbara Hutton (1912-1979) was the granddaughter of the founder of the Woolworth’s retail chain, and one of the richest women in the world. On June 23, 1933, she married the Russian prince Alexis Mdivani, the first of her seven husbands. For her wedding, she wore an extraordinary pearl necklace and a diamond-studded tortoiseshell tiara, both made by Cartier. After her divorce, she married Count Heinrich Reventlow (1935–38), Cary Grant (1942–45), Prince Igor Troubetskoy (1947–51), Porfirio Rubirosa (1953–54), Baron von Cramm (1955–59), and Prince Doan (1964–66). An enthusiast for magnificent jewelry, she became one of the firm’s most loyal clients.

Mystery clock with single axle
Cartier Paris, 1967
Gold, platinum, rock crystal, lapis lazuli, diamonds

Provenance:
Barbara Hutton

Madonna Statuette
Cartier Paris, special order, 1947
Gold

Provenance:
Barbara Hutton

Tank étanche wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1931
Gold, gold bracelet

This particularly rare timepiece is one of the very first waterproof Tank models made by Cartier.

Provenance:
Barbara Hutton

This watch was given to Count Haugwitz-Reventlow by Heiress Barbara Hutton.

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In 1912, taking inspiration from the illusionist Jean-Eugène Robert- Houdin, Louis Cartier and the Maison’s watchmaker Maurice Coüet developed a complex invisible mechanism for table and desk clocks whose hands appear to float.

Mystery clock with single axle
Cartier Paris, 1921
Gold, platinum, citrine, onyx (base and column), diamonds, enamel

Provenance:
José Yves Limantour
Purchased by Luz Bringas, a Mexican philanthropist, and then offered to José Yves Limantour (Mexican Finance Minister from 1893-1911, and member of the Académie des Sciences Morales et Politiques), then by descent.

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In 1904, Louis Cartier had the Maison design the first modern wristwatch for his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, so he could consult the time without having to take out his pocket watch when flying, a potential danger when piloting a plane. This piece ref lects Louis Cartier’s appreciation of a world in motion and constant transformation. Under the name “Santos”, the wristwatch was launched commercially in 1911 and became emblematic of the Maison as the Tonneau had been in 1906; and the Tortue and the mythical Tank wristwatches would become in 1912 and 1917 respectively.

Santos Dumont wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1912
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

This particularly rare timepiece is one of the very first Santos wristwatches, a model produced by Cartier from 1911 onwards.

Santos Carrée de Cartier wristwatch with self-winding movement, small model
Cartier, circa 1981
Yellow gold, steel, lacquer, ruby

This Santos de Cartier model was launched in 1981.

Santos wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1921
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, enamel, leather strap

Provenance:
Maharaja of Rajpipla

Santos-Dumont extra thin wristwatch, large model
Cartier, 1981
Platinum, ruby, leather strap

Model created in 1981.

Pocket watch
Cartier Paris, 1914
Platinum, onyx

Santos wristwatch with self-winding movement, large model
Cartier, 1996
Gold, steel, spinel

Model created in 1978.

Santos-Dumont skeleton wristwatch, extra-large model, N° 341
Cartier, 2016
Pink gold, one round faceted sapphire, leather strap

This Santos-Dumont model was launched in 2012 as a numbered series.

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Timepieces have formed part of Cartier’s universe since the mid-19th century. When Louis Cartier begins working with his father Alfred in 1898, he developed the production of timepieces to perfection. With their elegance and functionality, Cartier designs marked the Maison’s path in clock and watchmaking. Louis was interested in creating timepieces that would first and foremost be timeless designs and have cutting-edge technical characteristics.

Tonneau wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1915
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphires, leather strap

Provenance:
King Constantine I of Greece (1868-1923)

Tank Chinoise wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1929
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

Wristwatch with curved bezel
Cartier Paris, 1965
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

Tortue Single-button chronograph wristwatch
Cartier New York, 1929
Gold, leather strap

Provenance:
Edsel Ford
After her husband’s death, Eleanor Ford respected his wishes by giving this watch to his close friend and colleague, Arthur Backus.

Tank Cintrée wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1936
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

Provenance:
Juan Perón

Crash wristwatch
Cartier London, 1990
Platinum, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

Panthère de Cartier wristwatch, small model
Cartier, 1983
Gold, sapphire

This is one of the earliest examples of the Panthère de Cartier, a model launched in 1983.

Tank wristwatch
Cartier London, 1922
Gold, sapphire, leather strap Pocket watch with double chapter ring
Cartier Paris, 1911
Platinum, sapphires

Pasha de Cartier wristwatch with self-winding movement and rotating bezel, 38 mm
Cartier, 1990
Gold, sapphire, gold and leather bracelet

The rotating bezel enables a diver to assess the time spent under water. The triangle is aligned with the minute hand, which then indicates elapsed diving time on the numerals engraved on the bezel. This Pasha de Cartier model with a gold and leather bracelet was launched in 1988.

Tank L.C. wristwatch*
Cartier Paris, 1925
Platinum, yellow gold, white gold, sapphire, plaited leather strap

This particularly rare timepiece is one of the very first Tank L.C., a version of the Tank wristwatch created by Cartier in 1922.

Réversible wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1936
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

Tank Française wristwatch, medium model
Cartier, 1996
Gold, steel, sapphire

This Tank Française model in steel and yellow gold was launched in 1996.

Provenance:
Eric Nussbaum (1940-2003)

Tank à Guichets wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1928
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

Time is displayed through two windows (“guichets”).

Provenance:
Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala

Tank Asymétrique wristwatch, limited edition N°001/300
Cartier, 1996
Gold, sapphire, leather strap

Ballon Bleu de Cartier wristwatch, 36 mm
Cartier, 2013
Steel, one blue spinel

This Ballon Bleu de Cartier model in steel was launched in 2009.

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*La Doña de Cartier wristwatch, large model
Cartier, circa 2006
Gold, sapphire

This La Doña de Cartier model was launched in 2006.

The collection was created in homage to María Félix (1914-2002), nicknamed “La Doña”, star of Mexican cinema and one of the Maison’s most legendary clients.

La Doña de Cartier wristwatch, small model
Cartier, circa 2006
Gold, sapphire

This La Doña de Cartier model was launched in 2006.

La Doña de Cartier wristwatch, large model
Cartier, 2007
Pink gold, diamonds

This La Doña de Cartier model was launched in 2006.

Provenance:
Bette Midler, American actress